Our new coat, the ‘Smogger’, pays homage to the shadow world of the British tramp. Its folds conceal an arcane, glyphic code used by these wanderers of old. While the symbols possess a striking, decorative quality, their invention was born of necessity.
Introduced into England by gypsies during the reign of Henry VIII, the code became known as ‘Smogger’—a melding of ‘smoke’ and ‘fog’—evoking a sense of drifting, opaque secrecy.
Whether the code was ever as universally organised as popular culture suggests remains a matter of debate. Some scholars believe it was exaggerated by newspapers of the early 20th century to sensationalise itinerant culture. Hence, it occupies a murky borderland between pastoral mythology, historical fact and folk tale.
The symbols—a form of survivalist graffiti—were chalked onto the walls, gates and posts of dwellings along a tramp’s route. They informed fellow rovers of the reception ahead: ‘soft’ marks signalled benign households; ‘hard’ marks warned of inhospitable ones.
With protection being the essence of any coat—insulating the wearer from the elements—the ‘Smogger’ code operated as a parallel form of armour. By forewarning itinerants of potential beatings, savage dogs, or a call to the local constable, it shielded them from a hostile world. There is a profound symmetry here: both coat and code mitigate harm, suffering, and discomfort.
Placing the glyphs inside the garment is intentional; their meanings were, after all, concealed from outsiders. Only those on the inside—the tramps themselves—could decipher them. By slipping the coat on, the wearer joins the initiated, carrying a private archive that grants a sense of secret agency.
The ‘Smogger’ comes with 9 distinctive glyphs—selected by the buyer—as standard. However, more glyphs can be chosen (up to a maximum of 24); extra patched glyphs are priced at £12 each.
Suitable for both men and women, this coat can be ordered in a variety of sizes and a carefully curated selection of textiles.
* Made to order—lead time 6 weeks
* Informed by an asymmetric Men’s coat from the early 1900s
* Unisex
* Available in a variety of sizes: XXS, XS, S, M, L, XL
* A-line silhouette
* Off-centre closure (coat pulls across to button up one side)
* Shown in a Fox Brothers small-scale, mid-weight herringbone wool (woven especially for Bonfield). Other textiles available.
* Colour is Silt (a muted Green-brown). The colour is intentional, evoking the tramp’s place in society—of his ‘sinking to the bottom’. Other colours available
* Raw, unfinished hem and cuffs (optional)
* Short stand collar
* Front patch pocket with distinctive mitred corner, angled breast pocket, two side seam pockets, internal buttoned breast pocket
* Inset sleeve heads
* High single vent at rear
* Dark brown, flecked horn buttons (front and cuffs)
* Lined in a beautiful Dark green Irish linen
* Interior is adorned with 9 ‘Smogger’ glyphs of the buyer’s choosing, block-printed on Deep burgundy linen patches. Glyphs can be in Old gold or Chalk white linseed pigment. Patches are naively hand-stitched using yarn-dyed linen embroidery thread
* Buyers may choose more glyphs than the standard 9 (up to a maximum of 24). Extra patched glyphs are priced at £12 each
* Sleeve and coat length can be adjusted free of charge
* Antique key ‘brooch’ or token, hand-stitched to front (optional)
* Printed paper legend included
* Entirely handmade in rural England
* Payment in up to three instalments at no extra charge
* We ship worldwide
